Big Wave Surfing

Compared to traditional surfing, big wave surfing involves riding unusually large waves, towering over 20 feet tall. In order to successfully catch these waves surfers must paddle into or be towed onto waves using specially designed boards called "guns" or "rhino chasers". The size of the boards needed to surf these waves depends on the size of the wave and the techniques the surfer uses to reach the wave. A larger, longer board lets the rider paddle faster and has the advantage of being more stable, but it is also harder to turn. Short boards allow greater maneuverability but require more power to catch waves. Tow in surfing, a technique that uses jet skis to pull riders on to waves, uses short boards with riders secured onto them with foot straps.

Tow surfing was introduced in 1992. Tow surfing is very similar to that of the original surfing but tow surfing requires being towed in to massive waves. The jet skis allow surfers to reach a speed humanly impossible to reach wile paddling in order to catch these waves. With tow in surfing came new and smaller more maneuverable boards to allow more speed for waves of 30 feet. By the end of the 1990s towing techniques gave surfers the chance to ride waves towering over 50 feet.

There are many hazards encountered in big wave surfing. A wipeout may push a surfer 20 to 50 feet below the surface. Once the rider stops flipping around he must quickly gain equilibrium and determine in which direction the surface lies. Usually, surfers will have less than 20 seconds to get to the surface before the next wave hits them. To add to this the water pressure at depths of 20-50 feet is strong enough to rupture eardrums. The presence of a reef, causing a change in the ocean depth, is often responsible for the presence of these large waves. Consequently, surfers risk severe injuries or death by being thrown into these reefs. One of the most dangerous situations occurs when a rider is held underwater by consecutive waves. Surviving a "triple hold down" is extremely difficult. Being a big wave surfer means having to accept these risks.

The list of big wave surfers who have died doing what they loved include the following:
Mark Foo (surfing Mavericks on December 23, 1994) Kyle Hubbard (December 23, 1995 at Waimea Bay) Todd Chesser (Alligator Rock on the North Shore of Oahu on February 14, 1997) Peter Davi (Ghost Trees on December 4, 2007)

I think this clip will really give you a good idea on how big the waves are in "Big Wave Surfing": http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1n5tPTc1dQ <--- (intro to the Billabong Odyssey) In this link the camera captures the slow suspense zooming out onto Mike Parsons' ride down a monster wave at Jaws (Peahi) during the World Cup of Tow-in surfing.

The Billabong Odyssey is an action sports documentary. It follows the world's best big wave surfers as they travel the world in search for the largest waves that nature has to offer. This journey spanned over 6 continents, 18 countries and up to 70 foot waves. This film was directed by Philip Boston and stars these pro big wave surfers:

Shawn Barron

Fred Basse

Layne Beachley

Ken Bradshaw

Carlos Burle

Taj Burrow

Nick Carroll

Ken Collins

Sean Collins

Alistair Craft

Craig H. Davidson

Vetea David

Shane Dorian

Mark Foo