Cyclops

Cyclops is notorious for its massive powerful waves. Located in the pacific ocean off the coast of Australia the waves break from both the left and the right. There is a reef coral break meaning if you wipeout your most likely to be smashed against the sharp reef. These waves are some of the biggest Australia has to offer. As it breaks onto shallow rocks it's only rarely been surfed by tow in surfers and tends to favor bodyboards.  Cyclops isnt a very occupied spot mostly due to the high experience and skill level needed. When visiting the waves with the Billabong Odyssey team, Ken Bradshaw (a north shore veteran) refused to tackle the wave. 

The length of the ride is between 100-200 meters. The wave is classified as hollow barreling with wind direction heading north. As you can see in the following photographs the bottom of the wave is about 3 feet deep and has been measure to be at least 25 feet on a big swell. The estimates thickness of the lip is about 10 feet meaning that the force of the water coming over the surfer going into the barrel is much stronger because of the added force and acceleration of the water. In another picture i noticed that the wave is very hollow and surfers can easily fall into the 15 meter pit at the trough of the wave. 

Here's an idea of what the waves at cyclops look like: 

photo credit "© Jamie Scott Images"

Mavericks

"Waves are not measured in feet and inches, they are measured in increments of fear" Buzzy Trent


In 1992, Mavericks became better known to the world of surfing following an article in Surfer magazine where they called it "the voodoo wave". Between 1975 and 1989 not many surfers had the bravery to conquer the powerful waves but  a man names Jeff Clark. Clarks dedication to these waves have been the end of his days. The waves at mavericks are truly "mean and beautiful". This amazing surf spot is located at the northern tip of Half Moon Bad, Northern California 40 minutes south of San Fransisco, with its cold heavy water breaking down over punishing rocky bottom with shifting currents and frequently visited by great white sharks there isnt much room for failure. Mavericks reputation as a dangerous wave grew in December 1994 when Mark Foo, big wave rider from Hawaii, sadly lost his life on a comparativel small 15-18 ft day following an flight from Oahu with Ken Bradshaw.

surfing down a wave on the break at Mavericks

Big Wave Surfing

Compared to traditional surfing, big wave surfing involves riding unusually large waves, towering over 20 feet tall. In order to successfully catch these waves surfers must paddle into or be towed onto waves using specially designed boards called "guns" or "rhino chasers". The size of the boards needed to surf these waves depends on the size of the wave and the techniques the surfer uses to reach the wave. A larger, longer board lets the rider paddle faster and has the advantage of being more stable, but it is also harder to turn. Short boards allow greater maneuverability but require more power to catch waves. Tow in surfing, a technique that uses jet skis to pull riders on to waves, uses short boards with riders secured onto them with foot straps.

Tow surfing was introduced in 1992. Tow surfing is very similar to that of the original surfing but tow surfing requires being towed in to massive waves. The jet skis allow surfers to reach a speed humanly impossible to reach wile paddling in order to catch these waves. With tow in surfing came new and smaller more maneuverable boards to allow more speed for waves of 30 feet. By the end of the 1990s towing techniques gave surfers the chance to ride waves towering over 50 feet.

There are many hazards encountered in big wave surfing. A wipeout may push a surfer 20 to 50 feet below the surface. Once the rider stops flipping around he must quickly gain equilibrium and determine in which direction the surface lies. Usually, surfers will have less than 20 seconds to get to the surface before the next wave hits them. To add to this the water pressure at depths of 20-50 feet is strong enough to rupture eardrums. The presence of a reef, causing a change in the ocean depth, is often responsible for the presence of these large waves. Consequently, surfers risk severe injuries or death by being thrown into these reefs. One of the most dangerous situations occurs when a rider is held underwater by consecutive waves. Surviving a "triple hold down" is extremely difficult. Being a big wave surfer means having to accept these risks.

The list of big wave surfers who have died doing what they loved include the following:
Mark Foo (surfing Mavericks on December 23, 1994) Kyle Hubbard (December 23, 1995 at Waimea Bay) Todd Chesser (Alligator Rock on the North Shore of Oahu on February 14, 1997) Peter Davi (Ghost Trees on December 4, 2007)

I think this clip will really give you a good idea on how big the waves are in "Big Wave Surfing": http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1n5tPTc1dQ <--- (intro to the Billabong Odyssey) In this link the camera captures the slow suspense zooming out onto Mike Parsons' ride down a monster wave at Jaws (Peahi) during the World Cup of Tow-in surfing.

The Billabong Odyssey is an action sports documentary. It follows the world's best big wave surfers as they travel the world in search for the largest waves that nature has to offer. This journey spanned over 6 continents, 18 countries and up to 70 foot waves. This film was directed by Philip Boston and stars these pro big wave surfers:

Shawn Barron

Fred Basse

Layne Beachley

Ken Bradshaw

Carlos Burle

Taj Burrow

Nick Carroll

Ken Collins

Sean Collins

Alistair Craft

Craig H. Davidson

Vetea David

Shane Dorian

Mark Foo

Surf Photography

While flipping through some surf magazines I found myself really intrigued by the photography and all the props those photographers must get. Surf photographers must withstand the hit of every wave just to get the right shot and angle. They face the threats of sharks, broken bones, getting run over, or even drowning but it seems to be all worth it when they get their perfect shot. The experience is a lot like surfing as well, where if a surfer were getting barreled so would the photographer, dealing with the same elements makes every roll of film more deserved. 


Here are some pictures i found quite amazing:

Photo Credit: Steve Fitzpatrick

Photo Credit: Unknown

Photo Credit: Timo Jarvinen

Introduction

Being my first post and my first blog ever I decided to write about something I enjoy greatly; surfing. 

When I was twelve I moved to Hilo, Hawaii. While living there my Dad taught me how to surf. We learned together with exceeding enthusiasm, as each time I got closer to standing up and riding a wave I became more eager to learn and master the sport. I still have much to do better when it comes to surfing. I no longer live in Hawaii so it will be difficult to get the opportunity to surf again. 

For now, I'll start off with the beach i learned to surf as do many other locals. This beach is called Honoli'i, located in East Hawaii just a couple miles north from Hilo. The steady shore-break makes this beach great for surfers and body-boarders especially because it's the only good surfing beach on the eastern coast. I've noticed that a lot of times tourists will stop by just to watch people surf because of the little grass enclosure and garden across from the bathroom facilities. A lot of times the waves will differ throughout the shore so the more advanced surfers will catch the bigger waves while beginners practice on the less powerful ones, making this beach a wonderful place to learn and advance.

I will be posting anything involved with surfing that I learn or just find interesting such as equipment, surf spots, or any special techniques. I hope you enjoyed reading this first post and continue reading on.