Wednesday, October 13, 2010

Cyclops


Cyclops is notorious for its massive powerful waves. Located in the pacific ocean off the coast of Australia the waves break from both the left and the right. There is a reef coral break meaning if you wipeout your most likely to be smashed against the sharp reef. These waves are some of the biggest Australia has to offer. As it breaks onto shallow rocks it's only rarely been surfed by tow in surfers and tends to favor bodyboards.  Cyclops isnt a very occupied spot mostly due to the high experience and skill level needed. When visiting the waves with the Billabong Odyssey team, Ken Bradshaw (a north shore veteran) refused to tackle the wave. 

The length of the ride is between 100-200 meters. The wave is classified as hollow barreling with wind direction heading north. As you can see in the following photographs the bottom of the wave is about 3 feet deep and has been measure to be at least 25 feet on a big swell. The estimates thickness of the lip is about 10 feet meaning that the force of the water coming over the surfer going into the barrel is much stronger because of the added force and acceleration of the water. In another picture i noticed that the wave is very hollow and surfers can easily fall into the 15 meter pit at the trough of the wave. 


Here's an idea of what the waves at cyclops look like: 

photo credit "© Jamie Scott Images"






Monday, October 11, 2010

Mavericks

"Waves are not measured in feet and inches, they are measured in increments of fear" Buzzy Trent


In 1992, Mavericks became better known to the world of surfing following an article in Surfer magazine where they called it "the voodoo wave". Between 1975 and 1989 not many surfers had the bravery to conquer the powerful waves but  a man names Jeff Clark. Clarks dedication to these waves have been the end of his days. The waves at mavericks are truly "mean and beautiful". This amazing surf spot is located at the northern tip of Half Moon Bad, Northern California 40 minutes south of San Fransisco, with its cold heavy water breaking down over punishing rocky bottom with shifting currents and frequently visited by great white sharks there isnt much room for failure. Mavericks reputation as a dangerous wave grew in December 1994 when Mark Foo, big wave rider from Hawaii, sadly lost his life on a comparativel small 15-18 ft day following an flight from Oahu with Ken Bradshaw.


surfing down a wave on the break at Mavericks